The approach to Suilven is a long but spectacular walk past the shores of beautifully crumpled lochs, but also through many a treacherous semiswamp of waterlogged peat. It’s hard going at times, but the terrain feels every bit as primeval as the rock beneath it. The watchful shapes of Stac Pollaidh and Cul Mor kept a close eye on us as we walked, sentinels of their realm. Suilven itself remained hidden behind hillocks and folds in the landscape for much of the way, appearing only teasingly. There is something luxurious about the abundance of light in midsummer, such a contrast with the meticulous military-style planning and execution the harshly short days of winter demand.